Takayama

If you want to know what Japan felt like during the height of the Edo period, you have to walk through Takayama. Nestled high in the Hida mountains, this city was tucked away from the world for so long that it developed a culture—and a craft—entirely its own.

The heart of the experience is the Sanmachi Suji district. Walking down these three narrow streets is like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph. The dark wooden merchant houses, with their latticed windows and little water canals running alongside the path, have stood there for centuries. You’ll notice large, bristly cedar balls (known as sugidama) hanging over several doorways; that’s the traditional signal that a fresh batch of sake has just been brewed. Stepping into one of these old breweries for a tasting is almost a rite of passage here.

But the real life of the town happens in the morning. At the Miyagawa Morning Market, local farmers and artisans set up stalls along the river just as they have for hundreds of years. You’ll smell the sweet aroma of Gohei-mochi (grilled rice cakes with miso) and see the famous “Sarubobo” dolls—red, faceless charms that grandmothers used to make for their grandchildren.

The story of Takayama is also written in its wood. The city was famous for providing the finest carpenters to the Imperial Palace, and you can see their handiwork in the Takayama Jinya, the only surviving provincial government office of its kind. As the sun sets behind the peaks and the smell of Hida beef grilling over charcoal fills the air, you realize that Takayama isn’t just a destination; it’s a beautifully preserved piece of the Japanese soul.